An indispensable ingredient in many Sichuan and Hunan dishes, usually as part of a cold sauce or for dressing cold dishes, but can also be added as a condiment to cooked food to boost colour and heat (notably in noodle and dumpling restaurants).

It can be made with any type of chilli, but in Sichuan it would usually be made with facing heaven chilies which are not overpoweringly hot. It can be made with bought dried chilli flakes, but this recipe uses dried facing heaven chillies.

1. If using whole chillies, fry them with their seeds briefly in a little oil until crisp and fragrant. Take great care not to burn them. Allow to cool, drain, and then crush with a pestle and mortar or food processor.
2. Put the chilli flakes into a glass preserving jar with the star anise.
3. Heat the oil with the ginger over a high flame until smoking hot (about 180 degrees).
4. Remove from the heat, discard the ginger and allow to cool for about 10 mins to 120-130 degrees. Pour onto the chilli flakes and stir once or twice. The oil and chillies will fizz and swirl around at first, but the chilli flakes will settle as the oil cools.
5. When cool, store in the fridge.