Fermented black beans are one of Liuyang's prized local ingredients. This recipe takes advantage of the brand of black bean and chilli sauce named Laoganma, sold in jars in many Chinese and Asian supermarkets in the UK. It is produced in the neighbouring province of Guizhou and is very popular in Hunan. It is used instead of dried fermented black beans and dried chilli flakes.

1. Put the chicken pieces into a bowl, add a pinch of salt and the soy sauce, mix well and set aside.
2. Heat the oil in a wok over a high flame until it reaches 180-200 degrees. Add the chicken pieces and stir-fry until they have changed colour. Remove from the wok with a slotted spoon.
3. Allow the oil to return to 180-200 degrees. Return the chicken pieces to the wok and deep-fry again until tinged golden. Remove and set aside.
4. Drain off all but 3 tbsp of the oil and return the wok to a medium flame. Add the ginger and garlic and stir-fry for a few mins until they are fragrant and the garlic cloves are tender.
5. Add the black bean and chilli sauce and stir-fry for a few seconds until fragrant and the oil is coloured red, splashing in the wine at the same time.
6. Return the chicken to the wok and toss in the fragrant oil, splashing in the vinegar and adding salt to taste. When everything is sizzly and delicious, throw in the spring onions and stir a few times until barely cooked.
7. Remove from the heat, stir in the sesame oil and serve.