A popular dish in Changsha where it is usually made with fish heads. Adapted by Fuchsia using lemon sole, which has a similarly silky texture, but other flatfish would work, or even a whole brill or turbot for a larger party.

1. Rub the fish with the Shaoxing wine and set aside.
2. Place the smashed ginger and spring onion in the centre of a deep heatproof plate that will fit into a steamer.
3. Heat a wok over a high flame until smoke rises, then add the oil and swirl around. Add the black beans and chopped ginger and stir-fry briefly until fragrant.
4. Drain the wine and juices from the fish, then lay it over the ginger and spring onion on the plate (their purpose is to allow the steam to circulate around the fish and to enhance its flavour). Cover the fish evenly with the chillies and then scatter with the beans and ginger from the wok.
5. Put the plate in the steamer and steam over a high heat until the fish is just cooked and a chopstick slides easily into the thickest part. A 400 g fish should take about 5 mins.
6. Serve on the steaming plate with a scattering of sliced spring onions.